Petzl Roc Trip 2011! China, Guizhuo, Getu Valley

So earlier in 2010, in early October to be precise, I headed off to a little known valley called Getu in Guizhuo Provence here in China to attend a small local climbing festival and to stay on to help bolting some new areas there. The new development was part of the prepartions for the 2011 Petzl Roc Trip and I am happy to announce that it is going to be amazing!!!

The area already had a few smaller walls outside the park that held a handful of routes but the first bolting team from Petzl (that included the likes of Gerhard Hörhager, Guido Unterwurzacher, Erwan Le Lann, Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet and Dani Andrada amoungst many others...) set to work bolting mainly in the huge cave that the area is well known for here in China. The cave is a tunnel about 150 metres long, 80 metres wide and 3 pitches high on the inside!!! There is one route now that goes from the ground to the lip of the cave and it is a massive 5 pitches long!

So far the larger cave (that is called 'Dachuandong') has about 30+ routes in it from 5.7 to 5.14c and from 1 to 5 pitches and with several possible 5.15 projects bolted in it and there are several other walls being bolted nearby with a range of routes including some amazing long moderate walls with up to 7 pitches of 5.10 to 5.11 climbing... outstanding! The cave and nearby surrounds has the potential to hold alot of routes so it will be interesting to see how much gets done by the time of the Roc Trip.

A team from Petzl will be returning this year to continue bolting in preparartion for the Roc Trip in October this year. Their plan is to finish developing as much of the area as they can on this next trip. At present many of the routes bolted so far require the proper anchor sets to be placed at the top of the routes which was due to a shortage of these here in China during theor last visit but these will all be placed on the next trip soon and the crag will be sure to become another classic sport climbing destination here in China with something for everyone to climb, and all in a fantastically beautiful setting.

I will be sure to keep you all updated on news of the next bolting trip out there and with details of the Roc Trip dates, etc as they come to hand.

Here are a few pics from Getu to get you excited...

Here is a video from the 2010 Petzl Roc Trip, looking forward to this year!

Petzl Roctrip Mexico 2010 - El Chonta Rodeo from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

Oh, and look out for a Location Beta post on the Getu Valley in the coming months, once the bolting is completed and some topo's are done I will unleash all the beta I can for you!

Update...

Hey guys, here is a more detailed trip repot from Mike Dobie on their new peak in the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain region near Lijiang, Yunnan (as written about in my previous post). Again, I am stoked to see these guys doing their thing!

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Trip: Lijiang, Yunnan, China - Southeast face of Smaug Peak (jade dragon snow mt)

Date: 12/20/2010

Trip Report: Darryl Kralovic and I climbed an unclimbed peak in the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area in the Lijiang county of Yunnan in China.The peak itself was between 16,500 and 17,000 feet and there was no evidence of previous human beings presence at the top. The Jade Dragon Massif itself is commonly known for its major peak of 18,306 foot peak but most do not know that the area consists of 13 other significant peaks that have never been climbed. Smaug peak is one of them and the furthest south along the south to north oriented ridge that these peaks lie on.

Gear Notes: Brought the whole get up. Small rack to 4, snow and ice pro and rope and didn't use it. Only used ice axe, crampons, and helmet. Night was very cold that time of year recommend a -20 F bag for that time of year.

Approach Notes: Red Tape: We traveled to a small village named Yuhu "village" from the Lijiang old town, bought a ticket for 120 rmb each. We were harassed by police and government officials as to how long we were going to bein the area and they told us to be back that same day before 4 pm. (I think they were trying to get us to buy another ticket or something) I told them that we will be staying up in the mountains for at least 2days. They got someone on the phone that spoke english and they gave the phone to me. The man on the phone told me that they were afraid that we might die in the night and I responded by telling him that weare experienced outdoors-mans and where prepared to spend the night. He said OK and to call him if there where any problems. At no point do they say that climbing the mountain was illegal. So I guess the thing to do is tell them that you are backpacking and will probably be staying the night, and not climbing the summit. They might charge you for additional days if that is the case, but the experience is worth it.

Approach: From the ticket office we headed up the prominent horsetrail/road towards the beginning of the snow mountain ridge. There was one trail that seemed the most obvious and we passed a few horsestalls (used for Chinese horse tourism) and buildings as we headedtoward the peak we had in mind. We went off trail at about 11,000 feet and headed straight up the grassy slope to an alpine basin where weestablished a base camp. (see pictures) From here we camped at 13,900 feet. The following morning we traveled up a snowy scree field to a Southeast facing gully. Once in the gully we headed up and left till we could reach a few gully systems thatheaded to the right until we reached the summit ridge. We met highwinds and a developing storm as we ascend a 4th class block to the summit. Descended the same way. Downclimbed with no rappel. Steep snow and ice travel (50 degrees) Class 3-4 rock steps.
From the summit it looks like there might be a few other gully systems that access the summit further to the north.

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Thanks again to Mike for the beta, keep it up boys!

More upcoming adventures and some China news...

Life is amazing. Every day brings new opportunities for adventure. So many things in the pipelines for this year... more on those as they develop. But for the moment January is already looking to super fun!

So far the year has started cold and a little wet here in Yangshuo but we have been climbing loads regardless and training hard to be ready for the spring and loads of project sending.

Tomorrow I am off to Beijing for 11 days to hang out with my wonderful girl Jen who will be working there this year with the Jump Foundation ( http://www.jumpfoundation.org/ ) and to train with my good friends at the O'le Climbing Gym. I am super excited to be going to beijing as I have not been there as yet and it will be my first time getting to see the Great Wall... I am hoping some amazing landscape photo opportunities are on their way!

Then on the 17th of January myself and Jen have been invited to to go to the 'Jiuzhaigou Ice Waterfall Festival' in the Jiuzhai Valley in northern Sichuan provence to offer our advise on the eco tourism projects going on up there. Super excited to get up there as I have not yet been to Sichuan and the area looks stunning (see this site for amazing pics! - http://www.jiuzhai.com/language/english/index.html ). We are hoping that later in the winter this year we will return for some ice and alpine climbing if this recon trip goes well... psyched!

So over this last year I have made many good friends around China and discovered that while climbing is relatively new here this country has an unbelievable amount of climbing of all styles to be enjoyed and developed and there are a hand few of people around the country getting it done. People are out there developing bouldering, trad climbing, ice climbing, sport climbing, alpine... you name it. So I am going to try and get more news from around the country and more location beta posts done for people (info on some of it is out there on Chinese websites, but nothing in English for the rest of the world to find info from) so you can all enjoy more of what this amazing country has to offer and help progress the sport in all it's forms.

For a large part of 2010 my good friend Mike Dobie has been up in Lijiang in Yunnan developing climbing of all types on the plethora of granite, sandstone and limestone up there in north west Yunnan and south west Sichuan. He and his crew up there have found endless granite boulder fields, beautiful red sandstone splitter cracks, steep tufa dripping limestone and endless alpine peak first ascents ripe for the picking. Here are some pics from Mike himself...

Highball granite bouldering anyone?

The above two pics are from the amazing Liming Valley. Amazing sandstone splitters? Heck Yes!

And here is the story and some pics from a recent alpine ascent Mike did...

From Mike:

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Hey all, here are a few pictures and a brief trip report of a first ascent we did of a mountain in the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area.

Southeast gully of Smaug peak- Altitude 16500 - 17000 feet, 45 to 50 degree snow and ice travel, Class 3-4

Darryl and I did it in two days starting from a small village named Yuhu in the lijiang valley at 8,700 ft. (see lijiang plateau pic.) The first day we took a base camp at 14,000 feet in an alpine cirque belowthe summit (see view from BC). After a chilly -10 degree Fahrenheit night we set out for the summit. We followed a steep snow and ice filled gully and small class 3 rock steps to gain ledges that seemed to cut to the summit along its southeast face (see weather coming inpic). Large cornices and high winds met us at the ridge of the summit. A small class 4 hurdle was overcome on the summit block to grant usaccess to the peak (see summit shot pic). Clouds were forming as the winds increased as we descended back to base camp and out to the lijiang valley later in the day. The summit of the peak was somewhere between 16,500 and 17,000 feet. It does not have an english named so we decided to call it Smaug (like the dragon from the book the hobbit)to go along with the "dragon theme". Plus I have noticed in my time living near this peak that it seems to develop clouds before the restof the mountain ridge and be the start for most weather systems on the mountain. It gives it a smoking appearance at times like a dragon lives up there or something. During this trip we scouted more areasalong the ridge massif and we hope to have another trip up there in Feb. Love you all!

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Awesome! The boys on the summit!

So psyched to have such amazing friends doing amazing climbing all over the world but I am always most inspired by guys like Mike and Darryl out there doing new first ascents in frontier locations like here in China.

Stoked for you boys! Keep it up!!!

Looking back on yet another AMAZING year!

So it's New Years Eve already. Why do the years seem to be flying by? Is it because bending ind moving faster all of a sudden or does it just seem faster because I am having so much fun...?
I like answer two best personally.
This year has been yet another year of crazy times, fun people, amazing climbing and loads of adventure!

Writing a long story recapping all the years highlights would take waaaaaaaay to lomng so instead I am going to abbreviate the year in a few paragraphs and then illustrate it with some photos at the end but you can easily go back over my year and read all the adventures again here on this blog if you feel like a trip down my memory lane :)

So, my year...

Well, it started by seeing in the New Year in Hampi, India then shortly after I left India and headed back to Yansguo, China where I started working at China Climb as a guide and developing new outdoor activities around Yangshuo. I went on trips to some fun places doing everything from climbing to white water rafting and saw some amazing places.
I started doing alot of new route development around Yangshuo and then in other places around China.
In the middle of the year I went on a crazy trip to Singapore to race up a massive building with a big group of other profesional climbers and assorted misfits from aaround the globe where we were celebrities and partied with the likes of Diana Ross haha.
Then it was a short 4 weeks in Australia visiting family and friends and going climbing at some of my old haunts which was great!
Then back to Yangshuo in mid summer for some climbing and swimming in the 38 degree heat.
Then as summer wore on we did a climbing festival in Luo Cheng, one in Guizhuo Provence (followed by 10 days of bolting new routes in a massive cave with a team from Petzl), then the Yangshuo Climbing Festival. I sort of became head route setter and MC for the bouldering comps around here which has been a blast!
Then in November my wonderful girl and I headed down to Ha Long Bay, Vietnam for 6 weeks of work, climbing, deep water soloing and general great times. Now I am back in Yangshuo working as a manager at my favourite bar, Bar 98, and going out climbing like crazy every day.
All in all another great year!

So looking back over the year what have I learned...?

I have been studying Mandarin Chinese and can now speak OK, read a little and even write a decent handful of characters so I have learned alot of a new language.
I have learned alot about the culture and people of this amazing country.
I have learned alot more about new route development and bolting new routes, building Via Ferrata and Zip Lines.
I have learned more about myself as a person than I ever knew before.

And what does the new year have in store so far?

Lots of training to try and send my project here in Yangshuo... a 65 metre overhanging stamina fest!
Trips to develop new areas around China including - Ice Climbing in Sichuan, Big Walls in Xin Jiang, Bouldering in Sichuan, Crack Climbing in Yunnan, developing more Sport Climbing in Guizhuo, maybe a return to Deep Water Solo in Vietnam plus loads of new development here around Yangshuo. Plus a few other surprises...
Also i have been sponsored for the next year by the good folk at Evolv... but more about that in the new year ;)

So yeah, it has been a great year and the next one is looking even better!
I freakin' love my life!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR KIDS!!! Have fun, be safe, climb hard, have adventures, say YES to more things, get psyched and as always... love what you do and who you do it with!

Lots of love!
Duncan
x

Ps: here are the pics I promised, in no particular order, enjoy!

Merry Christmas!

So the holiday's are definitely upon us... the time for too much good food, too much nice wine and way too much chocolate and other desserts... good times!
I am off to a roast dinner with a great bunch of friends here over at Bar 98 so I will keep this one short...

Merry Christmas everyone! Have a great festive season and dont go too crazy!

Vietnam - Ha Long Bay

So after my last 6 weeks down in Vietnam I have decided to start doing a series of beta posts on areas I go to in order to help out in any way I can with any trips you might be planning to go on. So here it is, my first location beta post... look out for more coming soon enough! Feel free to contact me with any questions you may have and I will do my best to help you out.



VIETNAM - HA LONG BAY

The view from Ben Beo Harbour out into the bay at sunrise

HOW DO I GET THERE?
Easy. You want to go to Cat Ba Island out in Ha Long Bay. You cand get there from either Hai Phong or Ha Long City. Through Hai Phong is definitely the easiest. Just get to Hanoi and follow these easy instructions from Hanoi to Cat Ba provided by Slo Pony Adventures - http://www.slopony.com/index.php?option=com_sloponycontentlon&Itemid=27&Id=1

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
There are plenty of options of hotels along the main strip of Cat Ba with prices ranging from a couple of US dollars a night to luxury resorts. The usual is about $7-8 USD or so. The Cat Ba Dream is a popular choice.

WHAT ROPED CLIMBING IS THERE?
The is basically just one bolted crag on Cat Ba Island which is 'Butterfly Valley'. There is a little climbing in Ben Beo Harbour which is nice but access might not be easy soon due to some construction there.
Butterfly Valley is a great bolted crag with a surprising amount of routes from about 5.8 up to solid 5.13 with alot of the routes being in the 5.11 to 5.12 range.
You need to buy a pass to the crag each day from the Slo Pony Adventures office to go to Butterfly Valley. This pass costs $2.50 USD and the money goes to your National Park access fee and the bolting / rebolting fund. You can also have lunch prepared for you at the crag by the local farmers for a couple of dollars too which I highly recommend, the food is great! Just ask the Slo Pony guys about the lunch option when you get your park pass.
You also need to get to the crag. This isn't Tonsai. It is about a 25 minute motorbike ride from Cat Ba town to the crag on all tar roads. You can either hire a motor scooter, get a scooter taxi or get a mini bus taxi if there is enough people. All easy options.
There is also some bolted route climbing out on some of the islands like Moody's Beach, Tiger Beach, Saigon Wall, The Face, etc, etc. Check out the guidebook (available at the Slo Pony shop) and organise a boat out there!

Fred Vanden Bergh climbing at Tiger Beach

DEEP WATER SOLOING!
So let be honest. This is what drew you to Ha Long Bay in the forst place right? So let me be frank. This isn't supermarket cragging. You cant just kayak to the crag and hang on a beach all day. The bay is extensive with a maze of islands, the tides are big and the crags impossible to find on your own.
With that in mind you need to hire a big boat, a crew and a basket boat for the crag if you want to do your own thing. Not super cheap but affordable with a big enough group. If you want to come here to live on a boat and deep water solo everyday come here with a big group of friends and go crazy, just remember it takes a little organising and cash.
As a short trip option heading out on day trips of deep water soloing with Slo Pony Adventures is your best choice. They offer affordable day trips with deep water soloing, kayaking, etc and they provide the boats, chalk, guides to show you the routes, lunch onm the boat, etc, etc... definitely the choice if you don't have experience with DWS or you are travelling on your own.
Tides are also a concern in Ha Long and really effect the crags there due to water depth so look into the tide charts before you head out to Ha Long because you might turn up for a week only to find the tides are bad the whole time your there, which wouldn't be much fun. Just contact the Slo Pony guys ahead of time to ensure your trip coincides with good tides if you have your heart set on deep water soloing.
If you have a group or just plenty of cash and want to rent a private sleeper boat and a crew that knows DWS again just get in touch with the Slo Pony Adventures crew and talk to them about your best options.

Me Deep Water Soling at Fisherman's Way. Photo Courtesy of Simon Carter

OTHER STUFF TO DO...
Rent a kayak and explore the floating villages and kart islands, rent a motor scooter or mountain bike and explore the island, go hiking in the National Park and look for one of the the rarest monkeys in the world, the Cat Ba Langur ( http://www.catbalangur.org/ ), eat amazing local food at one of the floating restaraunts, eat amazing western food at The Green Mango

FOR MORE INFORMATION
Go to http://www.slopony.com/ and contact he guys there for help with booking trips, renting boats, gear and any other info you might need on Ha Long Bay.

ALSO...
Donate to the bolting / rebolting fund at the Slo Pony Adventures shop... help with a few $ to bolt new routes and maintain the classics you climb while your there!

Now get out there and enjoy!!!