Sunday, September 30, 2012

My first 8b/31/13d!!!!!

Heck yes!
I finally took a little step up recently. I have been working through all the link up projects I had at Lei Pi Shan here in Yangshuo with the aim of leading up to the hardest one, the main goal, the mega link.
It combines 3 routes; first off the bouldery start of the route 'Sleight Of Hand' that I bolted and did the FA of back in 2009. The boulder is a lot trickier than it looks and weighs in at about V7. Then you climb all of Andrew Hedesh's 7b+ route 'Da Bao Yu', you shake out around the anchors of that route then make a couple of moves to the right and proceed up the entirety of the amazing 'Dream & Hope' extension which weighs in at about 8a+.
As it was also a first ascent I dubbed the route 'Pocket Full Of Dreams' and I think it deserves a solid 8b as the grade, but of course we will have to see what repeaters think. A few folk have tried the parts and seem to agree on the 8b grade, but we'll see  :)

I will get out there again soon with my friend to get some photo's on the route so watch out here soon for more!


Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Another Kailas Rock Searching Video!

This is  a little video from when we were in Quzhou, it's just a short one, there will be full clips from Quzhou as well as our last stop in YingXi coming soon. Also I'll put up a bit of an overall round up of the trip soon now that it's over and I'm home in Yangshuo.
Enjoy!  :)

Monday, August 13, 2012

More Kailas Rock Searching!

So we are sitting in Hangzhou relaxing after finishing up our stay here with a big old party at the new crag we bolted here which included some pretty hectic flooding due to heavy rain but none the less everyone had a great time!
Here are some pics as well as the video from Xi'an. Enjoy!

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Kailas: Rock Searching - Le Ye

Hi guys! Here's the next installment of the Kailas: Rock Searching trip... 'Le Ye'

Get ready for loads of super steep limestone caves!!! Enjoy!

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

First 2 videos from the Kailas Rock Searching Trip!

Here you go, finally! The first two videos from the Kailas Rock Searching Trip - A short intro clip and the Yangshuo segment, enjoy!

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

The Search Continues...

Things have been going well here on the Kailas Rock Searching trip and we are now nearing the end of our stay here in Xi'an, our 3rd destination.
After Yangshuo the team headed off the Le Ye in western Guangxi Province for a few weeks. After some scouting we settled on developing a massive cave system just near town comprising of two enormous through caves that look like over sized aircraft hangers dripping with tufas and stalactites. The caves already had 10 routes in them on the more vertical walls and we set to work developing epic new routes through the amazing steep sections of the caves.
In all we put up 32 new routes making the total there 42 routes in one place from 5.11 to 5.14 and despite this there might be 50 more routes to be added to complete just this one crag. Le Ye has amazing potential and is without a doubt a possible future site of some of the best hard climbing in China with this cave on its own having potentially 20+ routes to be added in the 5.14 and higher range.
Amazing to say the least - I will be back for sure!
After Le Ye we headed to our 3rd destination: the granite walls of the Hua Shan area outside of Xi'an in Shaanxi Province.
This area is a maze of huge valleys leading into the massive mountains that sit right on the outskirts of the city and was a little bit more challenging to decide which one of the many amazing potential sites we should concentrate on. In the end we developed 2 single pitch areas in one valley, adding 17 new routes from 5.10 to 5.13 and then another few single pitch routes in another valley called Da Yu (Big Valley) plus a huge 12 pitch monster wall weighing in at 5.12+ with about 8 pitches in the 5.12 range... Epic!!!
Next we head to Hangzhou for a few days and Dave and I will go represent Kailas at a trade show in Nanjing then it's off to develop a nice cave and wall near a place called Quzhou which is a local crag for all our Shanghai friends. Psyched!
Here are some pics courtesy of our photographers Superman and Lei Feng. Enjoy!

Monday, July 2, 2012

KAILAS: Rock Searching 2012

So as I mentioned previously we have started on KAILAS: Rock Searching 2012 - our epic trip around China to develop new climbing areas and make a film about it. The trip will be taking us to Yangshuo, Le Ye, Hua Shan and Guangzhou to develop new routes and have a blast doing so.
The team is made up of a group of us that are all sponsored athletes on the Kailas team as well as some support crew and our photographer / videographer.
To start we opened a whole new crag in Yangshuo called 'Golden Riverside' where we put up a whole swag of new sport routes: 13 single pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.14 and 2 multipitches.
Morgan and I worked together to establish an awesome new moderate multipitch called 'Bless You In The Face' with 4 pitches going at 5.8, 5.9, 5.10 and 5.11 which tops out the huge wall of Golden Riverside with amazing views across the Yu Long River valley - superb!
After Yangshuo we headed to western Guanxi Province to a place called Le Ye where we are in the middle of developing some epic big caves that are stacked with endless options of routes through tufa and stalactite studded roofs. Such an amazing crag!
Here are some pics from the Yangshuo leg of the trip all taken at Golden Riverside, enjoy!

Some of the team. From left to right: Superman, Abond, Toni Arbones, Me!, Xiao Ting, Spiderman Paul, Simone, Zhang Yong, CJ Neff, Morgan Gerlitz

Me cleaning some holds on my route 'Fat Monkey', maybe about 5.13

Me working out the moves on my route 'White Men Can't Jump', 5.12+

Me leading pitch 2 of 'Bless You In The Face'  - Check out the amazing view down the Yu Long River valley!

Hands free on pitch 2 of 'Bless You In The Face'

Morgan and I scoping out pitch 3 of 'Bless You In The Face'

Morgan leading pitch 3 of 'Bless You In The Face'

And again

And again...

And one more  :)

Thursday, June 21, 2012

More shenanigans and the beginning of the Kailas Road Trip!!!

So it's all go right now. Things are crazy busy! As I have mentioned before I recently go sponsored by Kailas, the major outdoor company here in China (check them out at and it has been great. Lot's of awesome clothing and climbing hardware. So psyched!

As part of the deal we have arranged an amazing trip to 4 or 5 places around China and a small group of us including myself, fellow Kailas athlete Toni Arbones (Mr Siurana himself, if you have been to Spain you know who I am talking about), Abond and some other folk along with a professional film crew that is making a movie about us! Super excited!

We are currently developing a whole new cliff here in Yangshuo then we are heading off to Luo Ye in Guanxi Provence, then Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain) near Xi'an, then to a place in Hangzhuo... and to top it off right in the middle of the trip Morgan, my friend CJ, and I get to head to a competition near Lhasa in Tibet for a few days! So amped to see Tibet for the first time!

So it's all go. Watch this space for more and more pics as the trip progresses!

Here's a few pics of this week.

First up it was Morgan's 25th Bday recently (Happy Birthday babe xo) and here are some photo's we took that day of her on her first 5.13a send. 'Rock N Rolla' at Swiss Cheese Crag.

And here are some photo's from recent times including us bolting out at the new crag we are developing in Yangshuo for the Kailas trip.