Thursday, December 29, 2011
Here's another little video of me and a few buddies slacklining in Yangshuo Park on a rest day. Ray had a GoPro camera so there is a mix of footage in there...
The winter is slowly arriving here, it is getting colder and greyer but we are still climbing like crazy. I have also started my winter training, psyched to get super strong over the winter and crush some rigs in the spring! I might have some cool news soon too, a little writing project to do with my other blog, www.athletebychoice.blogspot.com - watch this space :)
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Here's another little video from a day out at Lei Pi Shan recently. It has my good buddy and local strong man Aniu doing a lap on the uber classic 'Singularity' 5.12b as well as JJ having a shot on the tough 'Honky Tonk' 5.12d.
Sorry about the shaky camera again, I had a mishap with my tripod and had to hold the camera by hand again :)
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Finally I have reached a breakthrough point in my climbing that I have been aiming at for a long time and I think it is of course all due to the training I have been following which has been working a charm... a few days ago on the 2nd of December I sent my first 8a+ / 5.13c / 30.
The route was one out at White Mountain called 'Gin & Tonic'. It is probably a touch soft for the grade but it is a great intro to the grade as it is my style (endurance with lot's of short boulders separated by decent rests.)and it is a 3 star route, awesome fun. I did the route on only my 9th try and while putting the draws on, I felt great and no where near my limit so I am super stoked knowing I'm not at my upper limit by a long shot yet!
I have stacks of other projects around town that I am close to as well and have more to try now that I am feeling confident and strong so today it's off to Lei Pi Shan to go try another project today.
Good times. Psyched!
Saturday, November 26, 2011
This week the weather has been hot which is crazy for this time of year... I should be in a down jacket but instead I'm working on my tan... crazy! So because of this I abandoned my project at White Mountain despite being super close (fell at the last move... it would be my first 8a+ [Oz grade 30] if I had got it... argh!!!) and I have gone to hide in the cooler conditions at Moon Hill for the week until the weather improves again.
Here's a little clip of some fun routes at Moon Hill. The route in the movie, 'Red Dragon' is what I am working on up there now, it's also my Vimeo profile pic so you can see it a bit there to.
Alrighty, here's the video, enjoy!
Monday, November 21, 2011
Here is my first attempt at a climbing video with the new camera. Please forgive some of the shaky filming and editing, it's my first attempt!
The video is of my wonderful girlfriend Morgan rocking out the classic 'Caveman' 5.11a at White Mountain.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Monday, November 14, 2011
(click on it for a larger copy)
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Friday, November 11, 2011
Here's a few cool short clips I watched this morning that I thought you might like... enjoy!
A cool bouldering short from Spain:
An except from the Scene, chatting with Dave Graham:
Enzo Oddo interview and climbing.. met this kid at the Roc Trip... he is smooth and S.T.R.O.N.G.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
So I am back and all settled in after more than 3 weeks up in Guizhuo Provence living in the amazing Getu Valley for what was the most fun climbing event I have ever been to.
The 2011 Petzl Roc Trip was a stunning success and the more than 500 people that came along for the ride had an amazing time. We climbed, we ate, we partied, we caught up with old friends and new... we had a blast.
It is hard to descibe just how fun it was so here are some pics and videos and links for you to check out to get a taste of just how it was... all the pics and vid's are courtesy of the Petzl website.
The main hard wall inside the Great Arch - undercling pocket resistance fest's galore!
"Lost In Translation" - No explanation needed...
Here are some links to check out:
A nice photo slide show...
And the update archive from the Petzl website that has updates live from the festival...
And of course some videos :)
Friday, October 14, 2011
The route was 'Tsing Tao Beer', a route that was originally 7c+ but is considered good 8a these days. So happy! And it only took me about 10 shots so that's super encouraging.
And sending that put's me in a great frame of mind leading up to the Petzl oc Trip up in the Getu Valley in Guizhuo Province at the end of this month. We are heading there tonight for 3 weeks or so of tearing it up... Can't wait!
Finally, here are some pics my friend Hans took of me on the amazing 'Red Dragon' 8a+/30 at Moon Hill. I am doing well on it and I think it may go after we return from Getu.. So psyched! See you all in a few weeks!
Red Dragon... Mid crux...
Setting up for the last move to the chains...
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Here's a cool clip I just saw posted today. I spent a little bit of time here in Yangshuo with Sam last year when he and Emily came to Yangshuo for the climbing festival here. Great guy, lots of fun, super strong... check it out :)
Sam Elias on the seldom repeated Tomfoolery in Rifle Canyon. A route at 8c put up by Tommy Caldwell circa '96 or '97 is rarely climbed yet attempted by the best. An ultra bizarre style gets you up this route and Sam Elias made a repeat in the summer of 2010.
Shot and Edit: Joe Kinder
Camera: Canon T2i
Lenses: Canon 16-35 f2.8
Canon 85 1.8
Friday, October 7, 2011
This last week has been a great week for news from friends. Confirmation of an Oz contingent coming next spring to my new home here in China for a visit is top of the list and is followed by good friends doing amazing things all over the globe. The most amazing of these has to be the following two awesome sends...
Firstly Mayan Smith-Gobat, my good friend from New Zealand, absolutely crushing it in Yosemite Valley lately, climbing the amazing streak line of 'Peace' 5.13d in Tuolomne Meadows and capping things off with an absolutely amazing acheivment of freeing the 'Salathe Wall' 5.13b on El Capitan. She is an amazing person and athlete and I am so stoked for her.
Check it out on her website: http://www.mayanclimbs.com/
Mayan in front of El Cap (pic courtesy of http://www.mayanclimbs.com/)
The second amazing send of the week is that strong little monkey from the Blue Mountains in Oz, young Mr. Ben Cossey doing the ultimate Grampians bopuldering test piece 'The Wheel of Life'. I'm not going to mention a grade for this as it is sort of one of those 'great debates' in climbing but it is without a doubt one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen and is brick hard regardless of a number. Massive congrats to Ben for such a great acheivement. This is the 5th ascent of this testpeice now after Di Koyamada, Chris Webb-Parsons, Ethan Pringle and James Kassay. Mad props Ben, mad props :)
Ben Cossey on 'The Wheel Of Life', Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians (Pic from 8a.nu)
That's about it right now. Just thought I would share some of the good news that's keeping me psyched right now! Now, out to the crag!
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Awesome footage, beautiful settings, excellent story telling; all in all an aweome watch.
Go check it out, there are 7 episodes of the Season 2 up online now with much more to come. The first season can be watched on ITunes by following the link in their 'about' section on the website.
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Saturday, September 24, 2011
And with good temps comes more visiting climbers and more psyche and the town is starting to feel like a climbing town again with great folk from all over the world popping in on our early season to crush routes all over the place.
Psyche is high and the season is looking to be a great one already! In the last week I managed a quick ascent of 'Paper Cut', a great 7c+ at Lei Pi Shan as well as the amazing 'La Liao', 7c, at Banyan Tree (sans one move that I use a draw on as it tweaks the heck out of my old shoulder injury and we don't want a repeat of that now do we!)
So I am also going to try and be a little less lazy with my camera and get out and take some pics of things around here as things go down. I got out to Lei Pi Shan yesterday and snapped a few shots of my friends Fabrice and Leon on the amazing 'Da Bao Yu' 7b+, check them out :)
Fabrice Vanbecelaere from Belgium on 'Da Bao Yu' 7b+
Monday, September 19, 2011
Here's a couple of pics...
The foggy view from our hotel room to the cliffs
At the drizzly opening ceremony
Ola with a pretty insect friend
These things always have lot's of good food :)
A nice bouldering short from my good friend Richard 'Sticky' Dale
And this is a cool little website: http://www.youclimb.de/ - go watch the slacklining video on their front page, awesome!
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
I will have some photo's of the festival I was just at up soon but for now here'sa cool video from BD about Alex Honnold... enjoy :)
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Here is a really nice video that I just saw of Arnaud doing the mega enduro 'Black Bean' 8b at Ceuse in France... on trad.
Check it out and be inspired!
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Here's the trailer for the new Australian climbing film 'Smitten', it's out now, go get it :)
This is a short from the upcoming Chuck Fryberger film 'The Scene' which looks like it will be another great film from Chuck, look out for it soon.
And some straight up climbing porn... James McHaffie repeating 'The Big Bang' 9a recently at Lower Pen Trwyn in the north of Wales.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
I have put some hangboard routines that I am using at the moment up on www.athletebychoice.blogspot.com
There are 2; a pull up workout and an endurance workout. The hangboard is the only climbing specific training I am doing at the moment (aside from climbing on rock most days of course) alongside my strength and conditioning training and it has really been working a treat and I am seeing enormous gains in a short time frame... check them out :)
Saturday, August 20, 2011
I am training like mad to get in shape and it seems to be working well. I am doing a large amout of cross training and developing some great cross training programs that are helping with my shoulder problem (my shoulder injury from a few years ago was playing up recently and now since my cross training programs it is all but perfect again!). The cross training is focussing on strength conditioning and I am feeling stronger and stronger every day and losing weight too. I am putting the programs and circuits on a new blog I have set up... check out:
I'm working on some hard routes in preparation for my project out at Fuli too and getting good progress on routes up to Oz grade 30 so I'm feeling great right now!
Speaking of, I'm off to the crag so I'll see you all later!
Sunday, August 7, 2011
So After a slight visa hiccup I had to bail from Taiwan a little early unfortunately. I had a great time climbing over there and catching up ith friends. Big thanks go out to the amazing Matt Roberston for his endless hospitality and to Adrien and Ya-Ping for the good times :)
I will be back to Taiwan one day soon for some more climbing, some surfing and maybe a mountain or two as well. So much to do in Taiwan!
I headed off to Malaysia for a few days to get a visa in Kuala Lumpur and wow, if you need a Chinese Visa but it in KL... 2 year multiple entry up to 6 months per stay... awesome, I don't have to worry about visa's for a long time now. Psyched!
I got to hang out with my great buddy Wei-Yeen who lives there in KL and is doing amzing work in the jungle with Sun Bears (her work sounds incredible!) and I got to eat great food relax for a few days then it was off home to Yangshuo.
I arrived home to find things are going great guns here. My fantastic flat mates have been bolting a new wall out near White Mountain which will have a stack of excellent routes, mainly over 5.12, all really long (read like 35 to 40 metres long) and gently overhung... super excited to try them out!
So it's back to training hard and getting in perfect shape for the upcoming fall season. Speaking of training check out www.bodyrock.tv - it is a website with free almost daily workouts done by a super fit girl who is distractingly cute. Her workouts are killer, try one of the bigger rep workouts or challenges... soooo hard. I am going to try to do one per day fr a few weeks to get in killer shape. Lets see what happens :)
Ok, I'm off to the crag soon, have a great day all! Go out there and get it!
Monday, July 25, 2011
And here are a couple of pics...
Ya Ping... music at the crag
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Beautiful golden sandstone walls rising up out of the waves, quarts crystals coating sections of the walls and shimmering in the sunlight, blue and white waves crashing against the rock shore, friendly people everywhere and amazing food galore. I could get used to this place :)
Here are a few pics...
Sunrise over the ocean, this is what we wake up to from our camping spot
Monday, July 11, 2011
The last few weeks in Yangshuo have been good too. I had a slight incident with a hammer being introduced to my thumb so I didn't climb much but I have been bolting like crazy and have opened up a stack of new lines at the crag 'Riverside'. Super excited to get back there after Taiwan and finish that crag up, should be 40+ routes by the time I'm done :)
Watch this space for pics and stories of my adventures in Taiwan soon!
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
So the weather is getting hot, hot, hot... and humid. It's sweaty good time out at the crag already and it's not even full summer yet. Crazy. But despite this things are slowly getting done. I have managed to get up a heap of the 5.12's on my list ( I wrote a list of all the 5.12's I hadn't yet climbed here in Yangshuo and I'm going around getting them done) and even a 5.13 too, my first in a while now and with attempts going well on some others I should be able to drag my ass up a few 13's in the fall I hope :)
We just got in the new Shaman's and Geshido's here at Evolv so I am rocking out in a pair of Geshido's thos week to see how they go. So far so good but I'll write up about them properly later. So far they are great on gently overhung stuff, loving them. Here's a pic of what they look like...
So that's about it for now. Gotta get my gear ready and get out to a nice shady crag for the rest of the day!
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
First some pics lapping the really fun 'White Tiger' 7b+/5.12c/26
Monday, May 30, 2011
This week has been great. I sent a 5.12a, 5.12c and a 5.12d in 2 days climbing and then did an amazinly fun 5 pitch 5.8 with my good buddy Brian. So much fun!
Check out the pics below for a taste of what life is like here when the weather is good ;-)