Sunday, September 30, 2012
I finally took a little step up recently. I have been working through all the link up projects I had at Lei Pi Shan here in Yangshuo with the aim of leading up to the hardest one, the main goal, the mega link.
It combines 3 routes; first off the bouldery start of the route 'Sleight Of Hand' that I bolted and did the FA of back in 2009. The boulder is a lot trickier than it looks and weighs in at about V7. Then you climb all of Andrew Hedesh's 7b+ route 'Da Bao Yu', you shake out around the anchors of that route then make a couple of moves to the right and proceed up the entirety of the amazing 'Dream & Hope' extension which weighs in at about 8a+.
As it was also a first ascent I dubbed the route 'Pocket Full Of Dreams' and I think it deserves a solid 8b as the grade, but of course we will have to see what repeaters think. A few folk have tried the parts and seem to agree on the 8b grade, but we'll see :)
I will get out there again soon with my friend to get some photo's on the route so watch out here soon for more!