Sunday, September 30, 2012

My first 8b/31/13d!!!!!

Heck yes!
I finally took a little step up recently. I have been working through all the link up projects I had at Lei Pi Shan here in Yangshuo with the aim of leading up to the hardest one, the main goal, the mega link.
It combines 3 routes; first off the bouldery start of the route 'Sleight Of Hand' that I bolted and did the FA of back in 2009. The boulder is a lot trickier than it looks and weighs in at about V7. Then you climb all of Andrew Hedesh's 7b+ route 'Da Bao Yu', you shake out around the anchors of that route then make a couple of moves to the right and proceed up the entirety of the amazing 'Dream & Hope' extension which weighs in at about 8a+.
As it was also a first ascent I dubbed the route 'Pocket Full Of Dreams' and I think it deserves a solid 8b as the grade, but of course we will have to see what repeaters think. A few folk have tried the parts and seem to agree on the 8b grade, but we'll see  :)

I will get out there again soon with my friend to get some photo's on the route so watch out here soon for more!



LinusFrost said...

Nice work! Looking forward to the pics!

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