|A nice warm fire at the crag, at Dragon City|
I have been training a lot of finger strength and general strength. I know for me to get to the next level I need to be able to use much smaller holds and to be able to pull a lot harder, so lot's of hangboard time and lots of general strength training, particularly on 'The Bolt' that I have started writing about on www.athletebychoice.com - a simple yet effective home strength training tool for climbers. I also have some pseudo gymnastics rings set up and have some real rings on their way in the mail so will write about using them soon too.
|Doing an Iron Cross on 'The Bolt' (www.athletebychoice.com)|
Lately my attentions on the rock have varied a bit. First I was super excited about a new crag here called 'Dragon City' where I went a bunch of times and did all the moderate routes and a few super classic 5.12's and then worked on a potential 5.13d project for a bit which was super fun. But now I have turned my attention back to an old nemesis; the 'Paper Cut Extension', a route that is a hard 5.13c for me and one that targets my weaknesses - crimp strength and power, while at the same time suits my style in that it's a 35m+ endurance route. This is the route I am psyched to use to get stronger and fitter right now in the hope that when I have what it takes to finally send it I will have what it takes to get my other next projects done a lot quicker as they have similar requirements - long, crimpy endurance routes.
|Me on the final crux sequence of the first pitch of my project at Lei Pi Shan. Photo courtesy of Christopher Miller|
The whole projecting thing is sort of new to me in the last few years. Before I would never have more than a few tries on a route before getting bored and moving on. I was definitely more about the onsight or fast, couple of shots ascent of a route than projecting. But now I am really enjoying the process of projecting - getting to know a route intimately and working out its subtleties before finally sending the route in such a way that it feels like you really got to know the route, that you know it intimately and can flow and dance your way up it. It's such a great feeling to finally master something that at first felt so impossible and now it's a feeling that I live for. Love it!
For now, it's off to the crag for another projecting session!
|Me being all serious in a athlete profile photo for my sponsor, Kailas|